Port Beach Sunset

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is another image from last nights sunset with Jamie Paterson. I was at F14 and 1.6 seconds by this time which made for some nice interesting wave action in the foreground.

Once again the clouds we performing nicely as they were earlier in the evening.

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~ by True North Mark on December 2, 2010.

22 Responses to “Port Beach Sunset”

  1. Love the wave action Mark, really good work

  2. Awesome sunset, interesting wave blur. Like it!

  3. Nice work Mark. πŸ™‚

  4. I just knew you were going to nudge me for my photos today. lol. I’ll get some up tonight. Boys have been sick, so been looking after them.

  5. you got gold in freo nice work mate

    • Thanks Adrian…those red skies are tricky eh!

      I need to work on my technique to capture them properly as I am still not happy that what I have ended up with reflects what we were seeing!

      More homework to do!

  6. I find the waves are so important for these shots as they become the subject, they are the only thing that brings a bit of movement, contrast and action. Here, you got a really cool wave action captured, brings a lot of interest.

    • Ta mate!

      Yep I was struggling with the right amount of interest for the shot…but was happy to find this one!

  7. Agree with what your saying mate re the red skies. Not sure I came away with anything from the other night. Not always sure of which light mode, ie shade, cloudy etc for skies like that. Maybe an HDR would work it out but till next time.

    • I have had some advice from Flemming on this subject Adrian and he advised the following:

      problem is, even if you “recover” in RAW, they still look not as good as if they had not been blown out in the first place.

      Here’s what I do, 

      – have the histogram to RGB, this is so important. The luminance histogram is useless. This allows you to see the Red channel in detail, it will blow out a good 2-3 stops at least before the other channels on a crazy sunset like that!

      – Have picture style in camera to a “neutral” setting, I have a custom setting that is very neutral, but I believe there’s a setting called neutral or something. this is important, as the histogram is NOT based on the raw file (too processor heavy for the camera). It is based on the small JPEG that is created when the raw file is saved (the same jpeg you view on the back of your lcd, that’s not the raw file either). This JPEG is created based on your picture style in the camera. So selecting a neutral setting allows you to see a flat colourless jpeg, something that more resembles the RAW file than say ‘landscape’ picture style setting

      Get these two things right, and then I really check that red channel in the RGB histogram and make very sure I am not anywhere near blowing it out!

      Hope this helps Adrian!

  8. Cheers Mark, changed my settings to neutral, did have it on landscape which explains my down fall. Histogram is always on RGB but obviously not showing the reds in a true colour gamut compared to that of a neutral setting. Will see how I go. Do you keep your setting to neutral for all forms of photography in order to capture a true image of what your seeing?

  9. Good shot Mark, and some good tips in the comments too.
    Its true that your lcd screen shows the histogram of the small jpeg as displayed in the preview as Flemming said. This means you can actually push your exposure so it just blows the highlights, since this is on the jpeg histogram. You will then find when you open it in raw converter that its not blown, since the raw file has a bigger dynamic range. Not exactly sure how many stops of dynamic range extra in a raw file over the jpeg, so i wouldnt overexpose too much. Actually, could be a good test for your camera, then you will know for sure how far you can push it!

  10. That’s some cracking colours there Mark ! The wave movement is spot on and helps bring some life and drama into the scene.
    Interesting reading too πŸ™‚

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